Advice from NYC Esthetician: Here’s how you’re causing more acne by dehydrating your skin.

We’re pleased to announce the addition of NYC esthetician, Courtney Wells,to the AcnEase team as a skincare expert to help you get even closer to obtaining and keeping acne-free skin for life. Courtney has worked with numerous acne sufferers over the years, helping them to find the right balance that works for their skin naturally.

As an esthetician in New York City, I encounter a melting pot of different skin types and disorders. With so much information and umpteen products on the market, it is easy for clients to feel overwhelmed, and in the confusion, use the wrong products for their skin.  Particularly with acne clients, I can visibly see the confusion.

Personally, I have struggled with acne sensitive skin for years (many more years than I had hoped or even thought possible).  I remember staring in the mirror and wishing I could scrub all of my acne off, and just start fresh.  This is the mentality that causes too many people to over-strip their skin, and create an environment that can cause rapid aging.

So, let’s talk lipid barrier function and TEWL.The most important thing to remember is that your skin is an organ.  After a night out, you would never think to scrub the martini (dirty with three olives please!) off your liver.  Be kind to your skin!  Your body, in its perfect state, has everything it needs to function optimally Sometimes it can act not so perfect from various environmental and stress-based sources.  Your goal should always be to assist your body’s natural defenses and help it return to balance.  Our skin has a natural lipid barrier (oil), which helps to trap water (moisture) in and keep environmental toxins out.  TEWL, or trans epidermal water loss, occurs when the skin is stripped. Commonly, clients use too many actives, including retinol, vitamin c, salicylic acid, benzoyl peroxide and glycolic acid at once or too often.  If you are overloading the skin, it will do more harm than good.  Your skin will stop receiving the benefits and will be come extremely dehydrated, and at the same time, produce excess oil. 

It is hard to convince acne clients to use their more “stripping” products less because they have a fear their acne will get worse overnight.  Thus, the most common type of skin condition accompanying acne is dehydration.  When skin is dehydrated, it cannot easily repair itself and is vulnerable to stress, both environmental and internal.  In this state, it is also common for the skin to produce more oil for trapping moisture and for protection.

Skincare is a very personal experience.  Everyone has different skin.  Yet, try to use actives and deep cleaning tools less.  Feed your skin with real, whole food by finding the best food to eat for acne.  Use nourishing soothing masks designed to help acne.  Use this time in between to nourish your stressed skin and watch slowly as it starts to feel stronger and less sensitized. 

Getting rid of acne takes experimentation and time to figure out.  Play with your products and always veer on the side of caution.  Introduce products one at a time and use for at least one month (once cycle of replaced cells).  With actives, remember, less is more.  Focus on hydrating with water and good food, and nourish with masks.  The concept is simple.  It’s really about finding which products work best for you.  It's a lifelong journey because skin changes over time.  Acne can be treated if you find the right balance.   I’m here to answer any questions you have, so please feel free to let me know in the comments field below!

Courtney